Tag Archives: River

Animals, Flowers, France, Insect, Landscape, Mountain, Nature, Plants, River, Sunrise, Sunset, Travel |

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Le Ténibre

20 to the 22 of August 2021

Having a 3 days window of rather ok, not too cloudy, definitely no rain weather, my dad and I are off to do a little hike that we had on our minds.

Going to the Ténibre (3031m) on a big 3 days loop:

-Day 1: from the parking de Vens (1580m) we take the main path going to the Refuge de Vens (2370m), it is a real pleasure to see that we have a good rhythm, the differnet hikes from the previous weeks paying off and allowing us, even with our big packpack, to maintain +300m per hour. We stop at the refuge for a drink and a blueberry pie and then head off on a less travl track towards the Pas de Vens. We soon reach the first of those less frequented lakes and stop for lunch. The weather alternating between clouds and full sun, I time it well for a swim in this high altitude lake. So nice. We then keep going, up rocks and boulders to yet another lake before reaching the Pas de Vens (2796m). I do an extra little side hike, leaving my big back pack at our night camp, to reach the Cîme Borgonio (2930m) which offers amazing views of the surroundings, and of our tomorrow objective, the Mont Ténibre, shrouded in clouds that evening. I go down a different way to map down what would be our track the next morning, as from bellow it is not very evident. Joining my dad, we wait the day out and are join by a lonely walker who, just like us, had elected to pass the night in an old Italian casemate that offer shelter at the Pass.

-Day 2: I wake as the light start to shift from the pre dawn, the dark hues of the sky slowly filling with lighter shades. I ponder, and then get up, my dad still about asleep, and head again for the Cîme Borgonio (2930m), I reach it just in ti;me to see the sunrise. What a show! After enjoying the changing colors and welcoming the new day, I head back to our camp to join my dad. We pack and start our way to the Brèche Borgonio (2904m), having breakfast on the way, once we reach a spot in the sun. Amazing view on the Viso, before the Nébia hides it away. From the Brèche Borgonio, we head down to the Lacs du Ténibre (2550m), a beautiful spot to spend a night in peace. Then up an amazingly steep slope, and more boulders and rocks to the Ténibre (3031m). Amazing views all around, the Argentera, the Gélas, Cîme du Diable, Grand Capelet, Mounier… They are all visible. Only the Viso is now hidden away. Then, down the next valley to the Lac Chaffour (2650m), where I can resist another swim, we look for a welcoming spot for the night. The edges of the lakes are pretty nice, but a bit humid and a welcoming site for clouds of flying bugs. We look a tiny bit further up and end up spending the night under the stars (and the full moon) on a small grass patch.

-Day 3: from the Lac Chaffour (2650m) we aim for the Pas du Cormorant, we reach a point were both my dad and I feel like we have to stop. Everything around us is falling down. All rocks, from the tiny pebbles to the massive boulders are not anchored down and want to go down. Without helmet, with our big back packs, we feel it is safer to head back down. We have probably reach 2850m at this stage, only a tiny bit short to the pass and then the summit (later on, we would read that it used to be down on eternal snow… None of it remains). After a breakfast on a boulder in the sun, we go down to the Refuge de Rabuons for a snack, before starting the long way back to the car, along the Chemin de l’Energie, with a detour to the Lac du Fer (from 2350m to 2550m and back down to 2350m), as the track was damaged. No swim today, we are short on time, and the weather is turning. Strong wind and many clouds. A total of about 19kms that day, with about 1420m of down…

An amazing hike, I am already looking for the next one!

For the pictures (quite a few) click here.

Cliff, Landscape, Nature, River, Sydney, Waterfalls |

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Valley of Water and more

23 February 2018

Detti and I take Belle with us, and we drive to the mountains for a nice day of wander. We started with the Valley of Water, in Wentworth Falls, but the track was cut short as the rangers are working on some part of the walk. So we explored a bit around, finding some very nice little spots less travelled.

We then drove to do another short walk, to Hanging Rock. What a view! And while she didn’t go too close to the edge, Belle fought her fear of heights to still enjoy the amazing vista.

Here is the Full Gallery

Cliff, Details, Forest, Insect, Landscape, Mountain, Nature, Plants, River, Sydney |

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Newnes Glow Worms Tunnel Walk

10 March 2018

Detti and I took the opportunity of this nice weather weekend to go camping in the Blue Mountains and enjoy a nice walk, that goes through the Glow Worms Tunnel of Newnes. A very varied walk, with some views over the top of the eucalyptus trees, and some passage underground, in the man made former train tunnels, but also, if you know where to look, in some natural caves where a very small stream snakes around.

Here is the Full Gallery

Landscape, Portrait, River, Sydney |

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Artarmon Walk

27 May 2018

Detti and I decided to go for a short walk, with picnic, along the little stream that goes from Artarmon to the bay.

A nice day, a nice walk, it is always so surprising to find yourself in such a beautiful natural setting so close to the city, the highway, the heavy traffic.

Here is the Full Gallery.

Details, Forest, Insect, Landscape, Nature, Plants, River, Sydney |

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Heathcote National Park

27 August 2018

Today, Belle, Detti and I are off to do a walk in the Heathcote National Park, a park that I have never explored before, but seems to be quite promizing, with the promises of beautiful water hole, rivers and the like.

And we are very happily swept away by how accessible it is, and yet how pristine and natural it is! Some very peaceful water hole, amazing trees, GYmea Lillies…

We will be back!

Here is the Full Gallery

Animals, Argentina, Cliff, Glacier, Landscape, Mountain, Nature, Patagonia, River, Sunrise, Travel |

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Mountains & Ducks

DSC0370226 December 2016

Our alarm wakes us up, and we quickly gather our cameras, warm clothes, and walk the 10minto find a little protected spot by the lake. This time, I took with me a little surprise for Detti. It took me several sunrises, seeing other people doing it, to finally implement that myself. And it makes such a difference! I took my sleeping bag! I open it all up, and wrap it around Detti before seating right next to her. What a pleasure to feel less the bit of the cold, it just gives another star to this awesome experience that a sunrise is.

And this sunrise is… Mindbogglingly beautiful! What a shame that my dad at to miss that one out of all the sunrise we had on this trip!

It starts a bit dull. A bit of cloud coverage. The same pale blue colors than the others. Oh well we think. It is nice. It is always beautiful to witness a new day. There is something quite magical, mystic, and no matter how “boring” a sunrise is, I always find something comforting, a sense of peace, there is something relaxing, to just stay there, and take on the start of the day. So we are there. Taking on the slight change in colors and brightness. When suddenly…

The clouds take on those amazing bright colors. What was before almost uniformly blue, a bit boring, is now taking on vibrant colors, pinks and oranges, and yellows. It is breathtakingly fantastic.

We seat. In awe. This is our last day up in the mountains, here, in Patagonia, so far from home, and we are witnessing pure magic. What a treat.

The colors keep on changing. They become more pronounced, distinct, the pallet gets smaller, yet more vibrant, intense.

And slowly, they recede, letting the day come to life, without exhaustion.

We back track to the camp and share breakfast with my dad, who looks better, but not great. Before going back down to town, we will go around the lake, there is apparently another view point of the glacier, and it looks easy, and nice. So we leave our bags behind, again having the pleasure to travel light, and walk around the lake. It is not hard, only the wind can at times be a bit pushy, apart from that… The view open up to the glacier. Cerro Torre is back under cover of clouds, this guy is very prude!

After a meal shared next to a big protective rock, we walk back, gather our belongings, and make our way back down the valley. Walking alongside the river, like that first day, we witness the same ducks (they are supposedly territorials, so, I gather they are the same), and we stop for a while to observe them, and take some shots. Those are really magnificent powerful little ducks!

Back in town, there is a little bit of a feel that the holidays are near finish. A nice meal put a bit of balm to that depressing thought…

Here is the full Gallery.

Notre réveil sonne, et nous nous habillons en silence dans la tente, nous couvrant de la tête aux pieds avec nos vêtements chauds. On monte rapidement jusqu’au lac (10min de marche seulement!) et on trouve un petit recoin quelque peu abrité du vent. J’ai une surprise pour Detti. Il m’a fallut observer ça plusieurs fois lors de nos derniers lever de soleil pour finalement le faire moi même! J’ai discrètement pris mon duvet. Je l’ouvre tout grand, le place sur les épaules de Detti et viens m’assoir tout contre elle. Ce petit truc tout simple, et qui ne pèse pas bien lourd, amène un confort bien appréciable, et donne une plus-value au lever du soleil.

Celui-ci commence un peu tristement. Avec quelques nuages, et des couleurs bleue pâle homogènes. Entre chien et loup. J’adore les levers de soleil. Même quand au niveau couleur ils peuvent être un peu banals et peu intéressants, je trouve toujours qu’il y a quelque chose d’un peu magique, mystique, quand on est témoin de la naissance d’un nouveau jour. Il y a comme un voile de paix qui descend et enveloppe le monde. Un instant entre deux univers, un moment qui n’appartient qu’à lui même. Et quand on est levé, éveillé, et que l’on vit ce moment, sa magie nous enveloppe, et nous amène un peu de paix, de sérénité.

Donc même quand je suis témoin d’un lever de soleil tristounet, je trouve toujours que cela m’apporte quelque chose de très positif…

Mais celui-ci évolue… les nuages qui jusqu’à présent étaient bleu pâle, sans volume, sans personnalité, se trouvent soudain enveloppés d’une lumière rose. Les couleurs, timides pour commencer, s’affirment, et deviennent plus riches, plus prononcées, elles irradient de ce nouveau jour qu’elles annoncent. Le simple rose devient” rose, orange, jaune”. C’est magnifique. Un spectacle d’une rare beauté. Des couleurs si vives. Si perçantes…

Comme par crainte d’utiliser toute l’énergie nécessaire à une journée entière, les couleurs se contrôlent, et deviennent moins intenses, plus mondaines.

Nous redescendons au camp pour prendre le petit déjeuner. Mon père va mieux, même s’ il semble quand encore un peu malade. Avant d’achever notre marche en retournant à El Chalten, nous décidons de faire un petit tour sur les berges du lac. Il y a en effet un point de vue qui semble assez sympa en longeant le lac. Marche facile, avec comme seul “difficulté” le vent violent qui par moment cherche à nous déstabiliser.

Nous trouvons un bel abri sous un gros rocher pour manger notre déjeuner, avec une vue splendide sur le glacier qui alimente le lac.

Et puis, c’est le départ. On démonte les tentes, et on reprend le chemin de El Chalten. En longeant la rivière, on revoit la même famille de canards (ils sont apparemment territoriaux, donc, ce sont très probablement les mêmes). On les observe un moment, avec quelques belles photos pour témoigner de cette rencontre…

De retour à El Chalten, il y a un petit air de fin de vacances. Et oui, ce séjour extraordinaire touche à sa fin. Un bon repas en ville aide un peu à dissiper cette impression…

Argentina, Landscape, Mountain, Patagonia, River, Travel |

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Back to Cerro Torre

DSC0361225 December 2016

We stayed the morning with my mum, and we share a Christmas day lunch with her, but then, the call to the mountains gets louder. It is our last chance to try to see Cerro Torre. If you remember, when we first went up, it was covered in clouds. And we didn’t get a chance to see it.

The weather is clearing, which only makes the voice of the mountains more relentless. “Come” they say, “come”. Who are we to resist? We have to oblige.

We had done this walk on our first day here, so we knew it was not very taxing, and that even leaving El Chalten on the early afternoon wouldn’t be a problem to reach our destination with spare time. And without the need of rushing it either.

Once we are passed the first leap, and that we are looking down the valley, we can see Cerro Torre, a single sharp teeth, narrow and tall, with only traces of passing clouds to obscure it a bit at times. What a reward!

We reach the camping ground and set tents, there too, it is a rather nice spot, soft flat ground, protected from the winds, under the canopy of tall tress. And the lake that is the base of Cerro Torre is a mere 10min walk! So we go there to enjoy the view.

My dad is a bit sick, he reckons he is coming down with a cold, and decide to have an early night, and won’t be joining us for the sunrise, except if he miraculously get better over night. Detti and I, we walk to the lake as the sun goes down, enjoying the peace of the place. The still water with the few floating icebergs. Cerro Torre dominating the landscape, not very imposing, as it is quite narrow, but just reaching high for the stars.

We go back to our tent, set our alarms for the next morning and let sleep take us away.

Here is the full Gallery

Noël. On prend le petit déjeuner en famille, on lézarde et faisons une petite marche en ville, puis nous partageons des empanadas pour midi. Mais en début d’après midi, l’appel des montagnes se fait entendre. C’est notre dernière chance de voir le CerroTorre. Si vous vous souvenez, quand nous étions partis marcher le premier jour, le Cerro Torre avait joué le timide, ne sortant pas de l’écrin protecteur des nuages qui l’enveloppaient. Et là, la météo change, le ciel s’éclaircit de nouveau, et les montagnes n’arrêtent pas : “Venez! Venez!” rugissent-elles !

Qui sommes nous pour résister à un tel appel?

Nous avions déjà fait cette marche, et du coup nous savions que ce ne serait pas un problème du tout, même en partant de El Chalten en début d’après-midi, de rejoindre le campement près de Cerro Torre.

Alors, chaussures aux pieds, appareils photos à portée de main, nos sacs sur le dos, nous repartons.

A peine a-t-on franchi le premier col, la vallée de Cerro Torre s’ouvrant devant nous, que nous voyons notre récompense. Le Cerro Torre, tel une dent longue et pointue, se dresse tout seul à l’horizon. Seuls quelques nuages de passage le voilent par moment.

Nous arrivons au camp avant le coucher du soleil, là encore, un campement très sympathique, sol plat et meuble, protégé du vent, sous un couvert d’arbres. Parfait.

Mon père est un peu malade, il semble qu’il ait pris froid  il décide d’aller se coucher tôt, et ne se joindra pas à nous pour le lever du soleil, sauf s’il va miraculeusement mieux.

Detti et moi marchons jusqu’au lac (10min du camp) pour admirer le Cerro Torre. Le lac est paisible, avec quelques petits icebergs flottant paresseusement sur les eaux immobiles. Le Cerro Torre domine le paysage, il n’est pas imposant comme le Fitzroy, car il est très étroit, mais il semble se dresser tout droit pour atteindre les étoiles.

Nous finissons par aller nous coucher, après avoir mis notre réveil pour le lever du soleil.

Chile, Cliff, Landscape, Mountain, Nature, Patagonia, Plants, River, Travel, Waterfalls |

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Patagonia – Valley de Frances

DSC0089315 December 2016

Today is a much more chilled day. We are first to go to “Italiano” and set up camp, and then, with only a little day pack, we will go up the Valley de Frances, which is supposed to offer beautiful amazing views. While it will still be quite a few kilometers to walk, the prospect of leaving our big heavy packs behind and go light for the rest of the day is very inviting.

We have soon covered the few kilometers separating the camp “Frances” to the “Italiano” one, and we find a nice spot to pitch our tents. It is currently quite empty as it is quite early and you are only supposed to stay one night there, to be sure that everyone has a chance to do that. Which is another thing we didn’t really factor in our plans of this trip. Oh well, it was a right choice to stop in “Frances” as we can now enjoy the valley in our own time.

Today is grey, slightly raining. Not especially cold nor windy. Just a grey rainy day.

The first half of the hike up the valley is the steepest. And when we arrive at the first view point, the view is somewhat sad. The clouds and rain are covering much of the valley, not revealing much, and affecting the morale. My dad is almost thinking of going back. But hey, if you think about it, what are we gonna do for the rest of the day? Sit in our tents to avoid the rain? No thank you. Might as well explore, and push on. And we soon get our reward. A big one! We haven’t kept going for more than half an hour when the clouds start to break, the sun shines and reveals the amazing surroundings. We can see deep in the valley, and the peaks on either side, with Los Cuernos showing their different colored layers of rocks, which is especially nice under the sun.

We go all the way to the top viewing point and have our lunch with a stunning view. From there you can see the whole upper end of the valley with all kinds of different mountains around. Very steep ones, like jagged teeth, rounder and greener ones, some covered in snow, some not, a river bouncing around in the bottom, carrying fresh clear pure water. What a day! What a place!

Our walk back is only interrupted by our multiple photo stops. It is hard as any way you point your camera is dazzling.

Here is the full Gallery.

Le programme du jour est assez léger. D’abord, aller de “Frances” à “Italiano”, quelques tout petits kilomètres avec tout notre barda. De là, une fois que les tentes seront plantées et le camp prêt, prendre un petit sac à dos, de quoi grignoter pour midi, et aller explorer la Vallée des Français, qui a la réputation d’être magnifique, avec des panoramas extraordinaires.

Le temps est un peu triste et misérable. Gris. Il pleut. Il ne fait pas particulièrement froid, mais le temps, l’humidité, l’ environnement, la pluie, tout cela nous donne l’impression d’une journée froide. Nous avons vite fait de trouver un coin sympa pour planter nos tentes, et, allégés nous commençons la remontée de la vallée. La première partie est la plus ardue, avec le plus de dénivelé.

On arrive au premier point de vue, qui hélas n’offre pas grand chose. C’est beau, mais la visibilité est un peu réduite, n’offrant pas vraiment de vue sur la vallée devant nous, ni sur les montagnes qui nous entourent. Papa est d’ailleurs presque prêt à repartir. Mais à quoi bon? Pour passer le reste de la journée assis dans la tente? Mieux vaut se balader et explorer cette vallée. Notre initiative est bientôt récompensée. Et quelle récompense! On est peut-être repartis depuis à peine une demi-heure quand les nuages commencent à se lever, le soleil perce, et bientôt toute la vallée est éclairée, la visibilité est totale. Les montagnes se révèlent. C’est magnifique. Les différentes couches du côté de “Los Cuernos” sont si belle sous la lumière du soleil. Quel spectacle!

On se pose en haut de la vallée pour notre pique-nique, quelle vue!

Notre redescente n’est interrompue que par nos multiples arrêts photos. C’est dur, où que l’on pointe nos appareil c’est magnifique!

Quelle journée!

 

Chile, Landscape, Mountain, Nature, Patagonia, Plants, River, Travel |

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Patagonia – Frances

DSC0061914 December 2016

Today, we are leaving my mum, she won’t walk the rest of this trek, as the distances are getting bigger, and she doesn’t feel that she can do it. We are going to go back down the way we came, and then veer right, to walk alongside the Nordernskjold lake for a while (I know right, not a name you would imagine for a lake in Chile!), and reach our camp for the night, the camp “Italiano”.

Or rather. That is the plan on paper. All the information we could find online seemed to indicate that this is a long day, but possible. The walk along the lake seemed to be close to flat. So even though we were going to cover quite a few kilometers, we would be starting by going down hill, and then walking along side a nice big lake. How hard can that be?

The day is beautiful. Clear blue skies. Crisp air. Haaaa…. Glorious Patagonia!

As we exit the valley, we are surprised by massive gushes of wind. So strong! That is what we had been warned about! Detti at one stage has no other option than to embrace a big rock, wrapping her arms around it, and actually has her legs lifted off the ground(!), she holds that rock for dear life and so as to not be blown away! What a sight. You can literally rest your body against the wind, as if it is a strong supporting wall. It holds!

Once we pass that passage, the wind is not much of an issue for most of the day. There are passages, when along the lake we climb a little ridge, where again the wind picks up batters us, but overall it is not a lasting issue.

We soon learn though that this “flat” walk along side the lake is nothing but flat. It goes up. And down. And more up. And more down. And so the same distance is made much harder to travel. As we get closer, and turn around to reveal Los Cuernos, those mountains so distinct with their different colors of layers of rocks, the weather turns, grey skies, rain, darker, colder.

We keep pushing. The harder part I think was passing the refuge “Cuernos”. We had decided not to book ourselves there. Because it is expensive, because it was in between two points we thought we could reach without much problem. Because. And so we pass the dining area quite late, and it looks warm and cosy and comfortable inside. Warm lights. People lightly dress, some having freshened up, sitting, sipping a glass of wine. And we pass that window, as the track is literally right outside of it, all wet, cold, not shivering but close to, and we know we still have a few kilometers to go. A French quote pop into my mind “Il est terrible le petit bruit de l’oeuf dur cassé sur un comptoir d’étain. Il est terrible ce bruit quand il remue dans la mémoire de l’homme qui a faim”.

By then we are thinking that we will slightly change our plans and stay at a camping ground called “Frances”, which doesn’t appear in some guides, but is on the map that we were given at the park entry. It is not very far from “Italiano”, but at this stage, a few less kilometers is music to our ears.

This is exactly what we do. And we really enjoy it. They have very nice, very hot showers! What a pleasure! The tents are pitched, we are feeling better after a nice hot shower, clean, and fed, we can sleep the night away!

Here is the full Gallery.

Aujourd’hui, nous laissons ma mère. En effet, nous allons maintenant attaquer la grosse partie de notre trek, et elle ne pense pas en être capable. Le programme du jour, préparé depuis un moment sur papier, depuis les infos que nous avons pu trouver sur internet, est de reprendre le chemin que nous avons emprunté pour venir admirer les Torres Del Paine, mais avant d’être vraiment de retour à notre point de départ, nous allons prendre à droite, et longer pendant la plus grande partie de la journée le grand lac Nordernskjold (quel nom bizarre pour un lac Chilien!), avant d’arriver à notre campement du soir,” Campamento Italiano”.

Sur le papier, cela semble très faisable. Certes, c’est assez long en terme de kilomètres, mais on va commencer par de la descente, de notre campement jusqu’au bord du lac, puis nous allons longer ce lac, et sur papier, c’est du tout plat. Donc, long, mais pas trop fatiguant.

Quand nous sortons de la vallée nous faisons notre première rencontre avec les vents violents patagoniens. Si violents que Detti, à un moment, doit s’accrocher à un rocher avec ses bras et ses jambes pour ne pas être emportée! Des vents si violents que l’on peut s’y appuyer, comme sur un mur solide. Mais les vents disparaissent quand nous passons un coude et laissons derrière nous le couloir de la vallée. Nous les retrouverons par moments dans la journée, passant un petit cap ou un petit col, ici et là.

Et puis la journée s’annonce splendide. Pas de nuage. Un ciel clair et bleu et magnifique. Un air pur. Pas froid. Même plutôt chaud. Nous marchons en t-shirt un bon moment! Le lac est magnifique. C’est bucolique. C’est bien.

Et puis nous découvrons que le “presque plat” n’est pas plat du tout! Çà n’arrête pas de monter et descendre, et je ne parle pas de quelques mètres! Oh non! Du coup, cette distance, longue mais tout a fait faisable, devient bien plus difficile!

En longeant le lac, nous passons une sorte de cap, au pied de Los Cuernos, ces pics assez unique de par leurs couches de roches de différentes couleurs, et là, la météo change! A l’horizon, et se rapprochant, des nuages bien lourds et gris. Des ondées de pluies. Nous commençons à fatiguer. Et nous ne tardons pas à passer devant le refuge de “Cuernos”, que nous n’avons pas réservé, parce qu’il est très cher, parce qu’il est au milieu d’une distance que nous pensions pouvoir couvrir sans problème, parce que… Et là, c’est un peu dur. Nous sommes trempés, il fait un peu froid, nous sommes fatigués, nous sommes entourés d’un paysage gris et humide. Et là, devant nous, car le sentier passe tout contre le réfectoire de ce refuge, nous pouvons voir par les fenêtres des gens bien réchauffés, qui ont pris le temps de se changer, de se laver, de se rafraichir un peu, assis au chaud, éclairés par des lumières bien chaleureuses, savourant des verres de vins dans l’atmosphère chaude et accueillante du refuge… Les mots de Jacques Prévert me viennent à l’esprit: “Il est terrible le petit bruit de l’oeuf dur cassé sur un comptoir d’étain. Il est terrible ce bruit quand il remue dans la mémoire de l’homme qui a faim”.

Brrr… Nous continuons rapidement. Mais nous changeons notre destination. Il y a une autre aire de camping,”Frances”, qui n’apparait pas sur toutes les cartes, et que du coup nous n’avions pas réservée, et se trouve quelques kilomètres avant “Italiano”. Pas beaucoup avant, mais à ce stade, tout kilomètre épargné nous semble énorme.

Nous y arrivons trempés, épuisés, mais bien heureux. Et notre plaisir devient encore plus important quand nous avons pris une bonne douche, très chaude, dans leur magnifique bloc douche. Quel joie! Réchauffés, séchés, nourris, nous nous endormons sans aucun problème.